Lake Tahoe Wolf
All canines (and felines) benefit from a
natural diet of real food, raw meats and vegetables and a little bit of cooked legumes
and root vegetables - but Wolves and Wolfdogs are especially susceptible to the diseases and digestive
problems often seen when processed commercial food is fed exclusively. So I am trying to give a broad and basic
formula for feeding your canine. You can do variations, but this will give you a good idea of where to begin. See
my Turkey Recipe for
a good place to
Very Important! Remember, when feeding a real-food diet
exclusively, you must add in vitamins, minerals and bone meal to create a well-balanced meal. Otherwise,
your dog can suffer from vitamin and nutritional dificiency.
FLUORIDE WARNING! Combined with the high
amounts recently found in 8 out of 10 pet food brands, a 10-pound puppy would be exposed to 3.5 times the EPA's
standard for this toxic mineral. Larger pets would get even more. And more is not good as excessive exposure may be
linked to bone and other cancers as well as 16 other serious conditions. Check out this link for more
The main benefit of
feeding fresh food is that it isn’t processed. High-heat processing of pet food – especially kibble –
creates potent carcinogens like acrylamide and heterocyclic amine. Needless to say, these cancer-causing by
products of processing won’t be listed on any pet food ingredient list. But they are extremely dangerous, even in
small amounts, when fed day in and day out. I feel there’s a definite connection between these carcinogens and the
rising rates of cancer in today’s pets.
The guidelines used for the production of commercial pet foods are those that
will be adequate for maintenance. "Adequate for
maintenance" means basically - sufficient to live! Such food provides enough to maintain an
already healthy animal, but sometimes it can cause a healthy animal to become weakened. But let's briefly take
a look at what goes into commercial pet food. Most grocery-store pet foods start off with the term "by-products"
which are obtained from slaughterhouses, and are listed on the INGREDIENTS label as chicken by-products, beef
by-products, etc. By-products are all the parts of the slaughtered animal that are not fit for human consumption,
i.e. beaks, feathers, hooves, diseased organs, tumors and rancid scraps and sawdust swept up from the
floor, etc. Some are benign. Others can contain toxic materials. Shockingly, some 140,000 tons of poultry are
condemned annually, mainly due to cancer and salmonella. It is prohibited for use by human
consumption, but used regularly for pet food! These "slaughterhouse wastes" are often loaded with
drug residues from antibiotics and growth hormones given to the livestock to help them fight the diseases of poor
living standards. The other source of "meat" bought by pet-food manufacturers is obtained from Rendering Plants.
That's where all discarded animal carcasses are taken and processed ... i.e. road kill, downed farm animals,
euthanized pets from Animal Control Shelters, etc. (upon observing the carcasses being lowered into the giant meat
grinder/processor, I noticed that the plastic bags that contain the carcasses of the euthanized animals
are also thrown into the mix, along with other debris that is scooped up with the bodies). One never knows the
reason for the deaths of these animals, and they could have died from poisoning or disease. Here are just some
of the elements found by laboratories in processed commercial pet foods listed as "by-products":
Slaughterhouse Floor Wastes
Toxic products from spoiled foodstuffs
Drugs used to euthanize shelter animals
Sugar, sucralose, xylitol and other artificial sweeteners
Pesticides and herbicides
Drug residues from farm animals
Artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives
Bacteria and fungi contaminants
Rancid foodstuffs from being stored for long periods of time in discount warehouses.
Plastic from packaged, expired meat from grocery stores
Plastic from bags of euthanized animals from shelters
Pentobarbital in euthanized animals from shelters
Non-nutritive fillers -i.e. beaks, feathers, fur
... all good reasons to supply your beloved pets with a healthy, "real food" diet. By feeding various toxins and
pollutants it actually increases the body's need for high-quality nutrients necessary for combating
and eliminating these very contaminants! These toxins put stress on the kidneys, liver and other organs. Food
allergies and other sensitivities are often caused by the stress these inadequate foods put on the immune system
and the elimination system, and frequently disease doesn't show up for months or even years. Pancreatitis, much
more common now and which is on the rise lately, is completely curable by changing to a proper diet (unless of
course, it was allowed to progress to a fatal degree). Hot spots - that are diagnosed as sensitivities to
heat, or other allergies - often clear up soon after the animal is put on a high-quality more nutritive diet, as
well as bathing the animal less frequently [often vets recommend bathing the animal often
with "special shampoos" which only dries out the natural oils on the dogs' skin making it more
vulnerable to parasites and other skin irritations]. Feeding Omega 3 oils helps these conditions
considerably. You can give via capsules or feed Sardines or Mackerel. Avoid Tuna and other large fish as
they are very high in mercury.
Basically, processed food is still processed food, whether it is expensive or cheap, for humans or for
pets. The meat in dry food [kibble] is boiled, baked, and baked again until there is nothing
healthy or real about it. Then it is sprayed with vitamins to help "enrich" it back to a food
product. Feeding fresh, human-grade food is healthier and often less expensive if you buy when on sale. You
can make enough for a month and freeze it.
All processed foods (both pet and human) - whether sold in cans, bags or frozen packages, from
either supermarket chains or local health food stores - are missing something that seems to me to be the most
important "nutrient" of all... Life Energy! It all has to be pasteurized and/or homogenized - which
means heated until all bacteria is killed - along with all live enzymes, vitamins and nutrients.
That is why they have to add some of those things back in, but it's not quite the same [usually synthetic or
man-made vitamins which expire or oxidize once exposed to the air] nor are they as complete. Frozen raw diets,
dehydrated or freeze dried pet food is better than canned, and canned is better than dry kibble. Dry kibble is
high-heat processed and is dehydrating for the animal, making them drink more water - which puts more stress on the
kidneys. Cats should avoid dry food altogether.
Sometimes it's difficult to switch our dog or cat over to a healthy diet because the pet is fussy and won't eat
it. That is often because commercial pet foods are filled with flavor enhancers (yes, there is MSG in
some which is labeled "natural flavoring"). I've seen ingredients such as sugar, molasses, honey, artificial
colors, sorbitol, sucralose, and sodium nitrate in pet foods and especially treats. So it's just like trying to get
our kids off French fries and greasy [but flavorful] hamburgers and getting them to eat their [bland] broccoli and
carrots. Not easy!
Speaking of carrots, many dog lovers give their pets raw, whole carrots for treats thinking
they are doing them a favor. Remember, carrots convert to sugar and there is a higher incidence of diabetes in dogs
now than ever, simply because many of their foods and treats contain molasses, sugar, grains and other
carbohydrates [which convert to sugar]. Carrots are also high in natural vegetable cellulose and are difficult for
them to break down and digest. Raw carrots therefore put a burden on the dog's digestive system and are
especially hard on senior dogs. Raw carrots are best pureed and mixed into their dinner for maximum
nutrition and digestibility and in very small amounts - i.e. a teaspoonful - and should be avoided with pets that
have diabetes. You can also find freeze dried or dehydrated carrots in some of the better pet foods.
One of the most important things is getting rid of most of the carbohydrates in the diet.
Dogs and cats are carnivores – meat-eaters - though many people believe dogs aren’t true carnivores because
their bodies can process grains and starches. The fact is that while a dog’s body can adapt to process
biologically inappropriate food, it’s not a diet that allows him to thrive and actually makes his system work
harder. Why feed the beloved animal in your life food that doesn’t allow him to thrive? Why deliberately feed food
his body must adapt to, when you can feed a diet of adequate, appropriate animal-meat protein that is easily
digested, along with a moderate amount of fat, and few if any chemicals and preservatives? For dogs that have liver
or kidney problems, keep the protein content lower, using poultry, vegetables and greens rather than red meat,
grains and carbs.
See my Turkey Recipe if you would like to get
some ideas and learn how to make your own nutritious and healthy food for your dog. Check out a few of the
books I've recommended for some other great recipes. Very often - just by putting your dog on a healthy
diet - disease clears up and a new life energy appears.
Again - Very Important! When feeding a home-made diet exclusively, you
must add in vitamins, minerals and fluoride-free bone meal to create a well-balanced meal. Otherwise, your
dog can suffer from vitamin and nutritional dificiency. Google some healthy supplements. I like
Fidonutrients by K-9 Health, SPIRUGREEN by Mercola, and Dr. Bob
Goldstein's Health Nuggets.
I often refer to many holistic books to help treat an animal and put them on a healthy regime. Much of this
information is obtained from them, especially my favorites... Dr. Royal has written a new book called
The Royal Treatment: A Natural Approach to Wildly Healthy Pets. I also
like Dr. Becker's Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats; and I LOVE
Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats (be sure to get the
latest version) because not only does it contain guidance for feeding, but it has lots of holistic and
homeopathic remedies for healing, recommendations for injuries, whelping, raising litters and more; and the
Manual of Natural Veterinary Medicine by Susan Wynn ad Steve Marsden is also great to add
to your arsenal. Feel free to browse our store Shopping Wolf Things for these and other good
books on Natural Healing.