Canine Safety Tips 
by Pamela Jo

As I go from day to day working with my rescues, I can't help but observe so many dangerous [and stupid] habits we humans complacently develop. So I thought I would put a few down for contemplative consideration...

Dogs in cars. I often see many people driving around with their tiny dogs in their laps, or hanging out of windows [often this is a bit of an ego talking, saying "hey, look at me and my pretty dog!"]. My experience in working with veterinarians has opened my eyes to the many dangers these habits can put our beloved pets in. Not only can the dog get injured by getting slammed into the dashboard or windshield if one has to stop quickly [to avoid hitting another car, person or animal in the road]... but if the dog gets caught up in the steering wheel or inhibits our arm movements in any way, it can mean disaster to whomever is in our way, including the driver and his passengers.

Some of the minor conditions caused by dogs hanging out of windows are frequent eye infections, foreign objects in the eyes, and breathing in an inordinate amount of dust particles [when on dirt roads] which causes breathing problems and lung scarring. The real disasters strike when the driver has to swerve or stop short to avoid an accident and the dog goes flying out the window, only to be hit by another car or it's own car. These are all frequent situations we experience in Animal Hospitals everywhere, every day. So please rethink your driving habits, put the ego in the back seat, and keep the safety of your pet a priority. The safest way for your dog to travel is in a safety seat belt type harness. The harness secures your dog from flying forward in the event of an abrupt stop, swerve or accident. These are available in many different sizes and at most pet stores.

Riding in the bed of an open Pick-Up Truck. Needless to say, this is an obvious bad habit, and illegal in most states. Yet every day I see these dangerous practices on the roads and highways... dogs pacing back and forth across the bed of the truck, standing on the wheel well with their heads hanging over, prancing up and down barking at everything [this is really due to anxiety and nervousness]. If people only knew how many fatal and serious accidents happen from dogs getting thrown out of open-bed trucks maybe they would consider a safer way of transporting their pets. When I have suggested to drivers an alternate method, they usually say something like "oh, I've been doing this for years with no accidents" ... or, "mind your own business." Well, it only takes once, and if we really care about our companions, we should protect and care for them in a responsible manner, and not take that risk. A camper shell is a safe way to contain your canines, or have them ride in the cab with you. If you consider your pet "a member of the family" - like most people tell me, then make their safety a priority.

Tying your dog in the open bed on a single leash can be even more deadly. Too many times a dog is thrown over the side only to be hung and dragged over tires and caught up in wheel wells, with the driver oblivious that his dog is no longer on board. If you must tie your dog, then cross tie him. This means that one leash is secured to the right front corner of the bed, short enough so that the dog cannot get his head over the railing on the left side. The second leash is secured to the left front corner of the bed, short enough so that the dog cannot get his head over the railing on the right side. This method keeps the dog pretty much in the center of the bed, with enough room to sit or lie down. It actually keeps them calmer because they feel safer. But inside the cab is always the safest.

Leaving your windows down for ventilation - Countless dogs die every year after their owners leave them in parked cars for long or short periods of time, thinking their dog is safe but not realizing the dangers animals face in this situation. Leaving your dog in a parked car even for a short period of time can prove fatal.

The temperature inside the car might not seem excessive when you first stop but the temperature inside a stationary car can rapidly increase to double the outside temperature. This can happen very quickly, within six to ten minutes.

The inside of a parked car will soon become far hotter than the outside temperature simply because a car traps the heat from the sun just like a greenhouse. This is why warm temperatures outside can quickly become deadly temperatures inside a stationary car. Even on comparatively cool days a car's internal temperature can rocket and keeping the windows open a crack hardly slows the rise at all. Sometimes it is cloudy when you leave the car, but when the sun comes out, the heat rises fast!

Add to this the fact that your dog has on a fur coat that is designed as an insulator to trap heat, so you can really begin to see why leaving dogs in parked cars can be so fatal. Also, they cannot sweat to cool down and have to rely on panting to regulate their body temperature.

The advice can only be this - never leave your dog in a parked car on a warm day, even for a few minutes. Leaving the window open a few inches, parking in the shade, or even leaving the dog a bowl of water is NOT adequate. A dog left in a car on a hot or even warm day can suffer heat stress, brain damage, and ultimately fatal heat stroke within just 10 minutes. Some overcast [or cooler] days we think they are just fine, only to come out and find the sun has come out and the dog is overheating. Please think ahead and be responsible!

If you come across a dog that has been left in a car on a warm day, call the Police on 911 for assistance. They will be able to take appropriate action, if necessary breaking into the car to release the dog. It is also worth noting that owners who put an animal at risk by leaving it inside a locked car could face fines and prosecution.

Walking on the side of the road with your dog on leash... Always walk facing traffic so you can react quickly if a driver doesn't see you or your dog. Keep the dog on the inside [not the road side], and don't allow your dog to have enough lead that he can get out in the road and get clipped by a car. Always wear bright or light colors when walking - especially at night - and if possible, carry a flashlight and move it about when cars approach. Always have a reflector or red blinking light on your dog's collar so that drivers can see him in the dark. Reflectors on your shoes are also a plus.

Choke Collars - can actually do more damage when not used properly and can even make a dog pull more, causing damage to their trachea. Since they create tension, they can also trigger the dog to be more aggressive. Talk to a trainer and learn to use a choke collar correctly. There is a right way to put it on - and a wrong way. Try some other methods of training your dog not to pull. There are now many training collars that are more effective and less damaging. Pinch collars [sometimes referred to as prong collars as seen in the photo] have saved many human shoulders! It is a self-correcting collar that closes around the dogs neck with equal pressure, avoiding the intense pressure on the trachea that choke collars may put. Choke chains and Pinch collars should only be used when training, and should be removed otherwise! If a chain choke or pinch collar is left on, and the dog plays [or fights] with another dog, it can be lethal. Teeth get caught up in the links and it can break teeth, jaws, or strangle. If you are trying to separate two dogs that are tangled, it could result in injury! Pinch collars, when used properly during training, will result in immediate response from the dog. They should not be used to create pain or fear, but should be used gently and properly. They are now very popular with women, kids, seniors and people with injuries or disabilities. It only takes about 20%, or less energy to get the same or more response from a dog wearing one versus a choke or flat buckle collar. The dog will soon graduate to less leash pulling and will be able to wear his old nylon collar again!

Halti and Gentle Leader Collars -Like Pinch Collars and Choke Chains, these halters can cause cervical and spinal injuries to dogs if used improperly. If the dog lunges, or if the handler is not experienced and becomes too aggressive with jerking or pulling, the action turns the head swiftly. Veterinarians usually like Haltis and Gentle Leaders because they make it easier to do an examination, and the dog is contained in an exam room. [They also recommend them because they sell them.] If the dog tries to bite, you can pull the leash and close the dog's mouth, because the halter is worn around the snout. We feel these are unnecessary for most dogs for normal every day use or fun at the dog park. They have their purpose with training, however, and are excellent in certain circumstances. Head halters don't always teach the dog to be well behaved unless you accompany it with other positive training techniques, but they do encourage the dog to be more submissive and calm in the long run. Some very active or hyper dogs often revert to their "normal" behavior when it is off. Many dogs usually dislike them and try and get them off because they put uncomfortable pressure against the eye or muzzle - which often interferes with getting them to focus on your training. They are useful as a restraint to subdue overactive dogs.

No-Pull Harness - this harness has the connection in the front of the dog, at the chest area. It prevents him from pulling by throwing off his balance by pulling him to one side. Often dogs that don't do well with Choke Chains, Prong Collars or Halties do well with a No-Pull Harness.

Always choose a tool that works best with your particular canine. The goal is to avoid aggressiveness, fear or pain. Practice reward-based training.

There are some good DVD's on dog training that you can rent or buy that are very helpful in teaching your dogs that you are the leader, not them! Check out one of our three website stores on our Shopping page for books and DVDs that may help.